Fresh Four Thousand Islands

    Sleeping bus. Weird ferry. Rain. Mud. More mud. Cows. Walking around the island in mud. Kayaking. Temple. Waterfall. Dolphins. Mud.

    Slimey, wet clinging mud. As we trudged through the mud, as our sandals suctioned down into it, as we almost toppled into it, we laughed at the spectacle we were making. Assuming we would eventually make it to the other side of the island, where the bridge connecting the two largest inhabited islands was, we continued on.
    The day before, we arrived from a bus trip from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, and from Vientiane to Pakse, and from Pakse to the four thousand islands. As we got off the final mini-bus, we were gestured into a tiny little boat to be ferried across the river. As we balanced ourselves to keep from feeling like tipping, the boat men jumped gracefully from boat to boat, in only flip flops. We watched the little islands pass by as our boat slipped through the water.

     As it was rainy season, some of the islands were covered by water, and this also meant that the inhabited islands had their share of puddles. As we stepped off the boat, we gingerly tiptoed around mud holes. We walked around the muddy paths, choosing which guesthouse to stay in. One woman called out to us and showed us a standard room, so we dropped off our bags and headed out to find the connecting island. Choosing to go right, we continued our trend of choosing our steps very carefully. As we passed more guesthouses, we began to see more cows and chickens, tucked in the space underneath the houses. Then the houses began to disappear and were replaced with fields and families of cows, calmly grazing. As the path became more muddy, we were sure that we were close. But then as no one came along, we began to think that this was way a bit more treacherous.

    And so it became more so, as our delicate stepping became trying to not sink into the mud. And then we sank. We squished around with our sandals stuck to the earth. We finally gave up on the shoe idea and walked more easily through the paths. Eventually reaching a hill with actual people, we looked at each other and laughed. I could barely climb up the rocky hill, as the slippery mud that covered my sandals and feet kept me sliding backwards. We finally made it to the river and rinsed off, realizing that we took the long, scenic route. Stopping for lunch, we headed back on the path that cut through the middle of the island.
    As we walked, school got out, leaving children biking back home on the path that we were on. Clutching umbrellas, I hoped it wasn’t going to rain on us. Just as I was thinking that, it started to rain, and then children opened up their umbrellas and kept biking. So Becca and I sped our pace up to try and beat it. The rain has beat us everywhere we’ve gone, I don’t think we’ll ever outrun it.

    The next day, we woke up early to go on an all day kayaking trip. As it turns out, the rain was off-putting to people, so the trip was just the two of us and the guide. We had to put on bright yellow hard hats and short little life jackets. As we pushed away from the shore, the vastness of the area became more clear, as it did later in the day, when we were wet and tired.
    Our first stop was a temple, and then the small part of the waterfall. As we walked along the middle of the island, a huge bug dropped down onto Becca’s shoulder. Laughing, we kept asking our guide about different things, what’s growing here-just a different type of rice-who is the small cemetery for-Vietnam victims. He answered all of our questions and was very cheery, even when it began to rain as we got to the beach. And then it poured. We stood under the roof of a house until it began to taper off, and then we headed out.
    We kayaked through some strong rapids (Becca almost tipped), and ended on a little dock. Our guide gave us our lunch (rice and vegetables) and bade us to look for dolphins. And then they began jumping. The Irrawaddy dolphins, kind of a squished, teddy bear looking creature, were playing and jumping around the area that we had just kayaked from. Immersed in dolphin watching, our guide took a quick nap and then we set out again.
    This time we went to the large part of the waterfall, but it was more like strong, rushing rapids. Soaked and tired, we headed back to our part of the island. The most interesting way to travel to the four thousand islands? By sleeping bus. Beds on both sides and two levels. We actually slept a little bit, and enjoyed not having an uncomfortable seat to scrunch in. If only there were more of these buses.

Lounging in Luang Prabang

multi-headed dragon inside a temple

     
     Joma. That's all. As we reveled in the soup and salads that reminded us of our long-loast Panera, we guiltily berated each other for our silly craving. But that doesn't mean we enjoyed it any less. Our sudden excitement for a treat that reminded us of home was most likely (and by most likely, I mean definitely) a result of our dinner the first night we arrived.
    Walking through the night market, we sought out new bags (we were a little tough on ours and going through them at a solid rate), new Aladdin pants and paintings. Pleased with some of our finds, we set out for dinner. Stopping at a place that looked promising, we sat down and ordered. Unfortunately, our earlier purchases happened to be the best decision we made that night, as the father of the family brought out our friend fish. Our whole, still headed, eyes practically staring you down, gills flapping in the breeze, fish. As we stared at each other in horror, we tried to smile weakly as we stole glances down at our little sautéed friend. Eating bread, rice and soda water, we made a deal to really think about what we were about to order from now on. Thanking the family, we headed off into the night.

Finding Nemo

    The next day, we left early armed with our banana smoothies and strong Lao coffee. Walking around the city, we stopped at the many Buddhist temples and monasteries that made Luang Probing a UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Walking down the street, a fishing man asked if we wanted to go on a boat ride to the temples and market down the river. As our little boat struggled upstream, we stopped at a small village whose inhabitants created pressed paper lamps and cotton scarves. Back in the city, we changed to go up to the tallest point, Wat Chom Si, to see the sunset over the city.

sunset over luang prabang

    We walked a strange way up the top, through a small village on the side of the temple, literally behind and around their homes. Feeling the humidity by the time we rushed to the top, we took a few pictures and headed down before it got too dark to see the steps.

    The next day we enjoyed fruit smoothies and read for a bit before we were picked up to go to the elephant sanctuary. As we got there, we were immediately led to our elephant, and gestured to get on. Climbing aboard this large mammal, I was surprised at how much coarse hair was covering his head. First, we sat in the wooden seat, but as we got further into the forest, our guide jumped onto the ground from his seemingly precarious position on the elephants head and gestured for us to scoot down. We sat down lower and our guide suddenly became a professional photographer, motioning us in different poses and taking a plethora of photos. Giggling, we stayed in our position until we got back, which apparently others did not do. As we reached the elephants’ home, we were asked by the others if we liked sitting on the elephant. Um, yes. It was way more fun that way. Patting our elephant and thanking our funny guide, we headed back into town armed with an arsenal of photos.

Vivid Vientiane

The Golden Stupa

      Arriving in Vientiane, we were surprised at the city we found. Keeping a strong French influence, there were numerous bakeries and cafes boasting delicious cuisine. Stopping at a restaurant, we had my favorite thing- fruit, museli and yogurt. Wandering around the city a bit, we decided to walk to the Myanmar embassy. Google maps walking directions was a bit off on this one, we ended up walking right into someone’s front yard, where a few yappy dogs bounded out and nibbled Becca’s Aladdin pants, making her very unhappy. We finally made it to the embassy, of course it was right by Singapore and Brunei. Opening the gate, we signed in and waited. The woman that came out was slightly pregnant and slightly unhappy with her job. She sent us down the street to get more photos taken because our passport photos weren’t “normal” enough. After filling out the forms to apply for a visa, requirements- height, eye color, complexion, we left and headed out to enjoy our day at Buddha park.

One of the statues at Buddha Park

     We took a small bus to the bus station, and then a mini-bus to the park. Crammed in a little bus, every bump became an earthquake. Holding on for dear life, children were tossed around as the door flung open and closed on its rusty hinges. Managing not to fall out the door, we wandered around this small, but packed park. Buddhas of all shapes and sizes seemed strewn about haphazardly, forming an interesting space. This “spirit city” of Hindu and Buddhist  After the bus ride back from the park, we walked around the city, stopping to take photos of the many temples.

    As we passed the main city area, we walked towards C.O.P.E.- the Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise. The children there are survivors of explosives, and they are given prosthetics in order to regain a normal way of life. We watched videos and heard stories about victims, not only children, that are unaware of the bombs locations. One woman was cooking in her house, and the heat from the fire set off a bomb underneath her. And small children collect pieces of shrapnel that they find to sell or use as toys. The public relations manager was very informative, and we left pleased that we had stopped by. Stopping by the Golden Stupa, the national stupa of Laos, we ended our time here.