Bumming around Bangkok

Reclining Buddha

Meeting an interesting Indian and British guy at breakfast the next day, we followed the directions that they gave us to the Grand Palace. Almost five hours, a stroll through Chinatown, a giant swing, numerous temples and a huge water bottle later, we arrived. What should have taken us less than an hour took almost five with all the wrong turns and detours we made. And it had closed twenty minutes earlier. At least on the way, we had stopped at Wat Pho, a temple famous for its’ reclining Buddha. Ready to be done with Thailand, we impatiently awaited our flight to Yangon, Myanmar.

Chills in Chiang Mai

One of the young tigers

     With our extra time in Bangkok, we decided to take a day trip to Chiang Mai, where the tiger temple is located. This temple, Wat Pa Luangta Bua Yannasampanno, consists of boars, buffalo, cows, deer and goats. Originally a haven for injured or unwanted animals, it is now a wildlife sanctuary. The first cub, whose mother was killed by poachers, was brought to the monastery in 1999. After the first cub, four more males and four more females we rescued from poachers and given to the monks to raise. These cubs grew and began reproducing, thus creating a tiger “haven.”



    People are allowed to visit between 1:30 and 3:30, when the tigers are napping and resting in the heat of the day. You could also come earlier or stay later and participate in “exercising” the tigers, which seemed a bit scary. We walked around the temple grounds with the only other person in our group, a very friendly Italian guy. We all took turns taking pictures with the tigers, and then Becca began questioning the workers as to why the tigers are so quiet and calm. The woman laughed, and said they get drugging questions all the time. There is only a short period where people are able to touch them, during the heat of the day when tigers sleep. Also, they have been hand-raised and thus desensitized to human touch. As we pet them, all the workers warned us to touch them with a very firm brush, because a light touch would be like a fly or tickling them and they would swat us. Pleased that we came here, we headed back in the van and back to Bangkok.

Back to Bangkok

Wat Pho

Returning to Bangkok to drop off our passports and hopefully get our India visas in one day, we dropped off our stuff and hopped into a cab. Arriving at the embassy we were informed that we could not pick up our passports until Monday. Stuck in Bangkok, we decided to see some of the surrounding city that we had missed before. And onto Chiang Mai we went.

Fresh Four Thousand Islands

    Sleeping bus. Weird ferry. Rain. Mud. More mud. Cows. Walking around the island in mud. Kayaking. Temple. Waterfall. Dolphins. Mud.

    Slimey, wet clinging mud. As we trudged through the mud, as our sandals suctioned down into it, as we almost toppled into it, we laughed at the spectacle we were making. Assuming we would eventually make it to the other side of the island, where the bridge connecting the two largest inhabited islands was, we continued on.
    The day before, we arrived from a bus trip from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, and from Vientiane to Pakse, and from Pakse to the four thousand islands. As we got off the final mini-bus, we were gestured into a tiny little boat to be ferried across the river. As we balanced ourselves to keep from feeling like tipping, the boat men jumped gracefully from boat to boat, in only flip flops. We watched the little islands pass by as our boat slipped through the water.

     As it was rainy season, some of the islands were covered by water, and this also meant that the inhabited islands had their share of puddles. As we stepped off the boat, we gingerly tiptoed around mud holes. We walked around the muddy paths, choosing which guesthouse to stay in. One woman called out to us and showed us a standard room, so we dropped off our bags and headed out to find the connecting island. Choosing to go right, we continued our trend of choosing our steps very carefully. As we passed more guesthouses, we began to see more cows and chickens, tucked in the space underneath the houses. Then the houses began to disappear and were replaced with fields and families of cows, calmly grazing. As the path became more muddy, we were sure that we were close. But then as no one came along, we began to think that this was way a bit more treacherous.

    And so it became more so, as our delicate stepping became trying to not sink into the mud. And then we sank. We squished around with our sandals stuck to the earth. We finally gave up on the shoe idea and walked more easily through the paths. Eventually reaching a hill with actual people, we looked at each other and laughed. I could barely climb up the rocky hill, as the slippery mud that covered my sandals and feet kept me sliding backwards. We finally made it to the river and rinsed off, realizing that we took the long, scenic route. Stopping for lunch, we headed back on the path that cut through the middle of the island.
    As we walked, school got out, leaving children biking back home on the path that we were on. Clutching umbrellas, I hoped it wasn’t going to rain on us. Just as I was thinking that, it started to rain, and then children opened up their umbrellas and kept biking. So Becca and I sped our pace up to try and beat it. The rain has beat us everywhere we’ve gone, I don’t think we’ll ever outrun it.

    The next day, we woke up early to go on an all day kayaking trip. As it turns out, the rain was off-putting to people, so the trip was just the two of us and the guide. We had to put on bright yellow hard hats and short little life jackets. As we pushed away from the shore, the vastness of the area became more clear, as it did later in the day, when we were wet and tired.
    Our first stop was a temple, and then the small part of the waterfall. As we walked along the middle of the island, a huge bug dropped down onto Becca’s shoulder. Laughing, we kept asking our guide about different things, what’s growing here-just a different type of rice-who is the small cemetery for-Vietnam victims. He answered all of our questions and was very cheery, even when it began to rain as we got to the beach. And then it poured. We stood under the roof of a house until it began to taper off, and then we headed out.
    We kayaked through some strong rapids (Becca almost tipped), and ended on a little dock. Our guide gave us our lunch (rice and vegetables) and bade us to look for dolphins. And then they began jumping. The Irrawaddy dolphins, kind of a squished, teddy bear looking creature, were playing and jumping around the area that we had just kayaked from. Immersed in dolphin watching, our guide took a quick nap and then we set out again.
    This time we went to the large part of the waterfall, but it was more like strong, rushing rapids. Soaked and tired, we headed back to our part of the island. The most interesting way to travel to the four thousand islands? By sleeping bus. Beds on both sides and two levels. We actually slept a little bit, and enjoyed not having an uncomfortable seat to scrunch in. If only there were more of these buses.

Lounging in Luang Prabang

multi-headed dragon inside a temple

     
     Joma. That's all. As we reveled in the soup and salads that reminded us of our long-loast Panera, we guiltily berated each other for our silly craving. But that doesn't mean we enjoyed it any less. Our sudden excitement for a treat that reminded us of home was most likely (and by most likely, I mean definitely) a result of our dinner the first night we arrived.
    Walking through the night market, we sought out new bags (we were a little tough on ours and going through them at a solid rate), new Aladdin pants and paintings. Pleased with some of our finds, we set out for dinner. Stopping at a place that looked promising, we sat down and ordered. Unfortunately, our earlier purchases happened to be the best decision we made that night, as the father of the family brought out our friend fish. Our whole, still headed, eyes practically staring you down, gills flapping in the breeze, fish. As we stared at each other in horror, we tried to smile weakly as we stole glances down at our little sautéed friend. Eating bread, rice and soda water, we made a deal to really think about what we were about to order from now on. Thanking the family, we headed off into the night.

Finding Nemo

    The next day, we left early armed with our banana smoothies and strong Lao coffee. Walking around the city, we stopped at the many Buddhist temples and monasteries that made Luang Probing a UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Walking down the street, a fishing man asked if we wanted to go on a boat ride to the temples and market down the river. As our little boat struggled upstream, we stopped at a small village whose inhabitants created pressed paper lamps and cotton scarves. Back in the city, we changed to go up to the tallest point, Wat Chom Si, to see the sunset over the city.

sunset over luang prabang

    We walked a strange way up the top, through a small village on the side of the temple, literally behind and around their homes. Feeling the humidity by the time we rushed to the top, we took a few pictures and headed down before it got too dark to see the steps.

    The next day we enjoyed fruit smoothies and read for a bit before we were picked up to go to the elephant sanctuary. As we got there, we were immediately led to our elephant, and gestured to get on. Climbing aboard this large mammal, I was surprised at how much coarse hair was covering his head. First, we sat in the wooden seat, but as we got further into the forest, our guide jumped onto the ground from his seemingly precarious position on the elephants head and gestured for us to scoot down. We sat down lower and our guide suddenly became a professional photographer, motioning us in different poses and taking a plethora of photos. Giggling, we stayed in our position until we got back, which apparently others did not do. As we reached the elephants’ home, we were asked by the others if we liked sitting on the elephant. Um, yes. It was way more fun that way. Patting our elephant and thanking our funny guide, we headed back into town armed with an arsenal of photos.

Vivid Vientiane

The Golden Stupa

      Arriving in Vientiane, we were surprised at the city we found. Keeping a strong French influence, there were numerous bakeries and cafes boasting delicious cuisine. Stopping at a restaurant, we had my favorite thing- fruit, museli and yogurt. Wandering around the city a bit, we decided to walk to the Myanmar embassy. Google maps walking directions was a bit off on this one, we ended up walking right into someone’s front yard, where a few yappy dogs bounded out and nibbled Becca’s Aladdin pants, making her very unhappy. We finally made it to the embassy, of course it was right by Singapore and Brunei. Opening the gate, we signed in and waited. The woman that came out was slightly pregnant and slightly unhappy with her job. She sent us down the street to get more photos taken because our passport photos weren’t “normal” enough. After filling out the forms to apply for a visa, requirements- height, eye color, complexion, we left and headed out to enjoy our day at Buddha park.

One of the statues at Buddha Park

     We took a small bus to the bus station, and then a mini-bus to the park. Crammed in a little bus, every bump became an earthquake. Holding on for dear life, children were tossed around as the door flung open and closed on its rusty hinges. Managing not to fall out the door, we wandered around this small, but packed park. Buddhas of all shapes and sizes seemed strewn about haphazardly, forming an interesting space. This “spirit city” of Hindu and Buddhist  After the bus ride back from the park, we walked around the city, stopping to take photos of the many temples.

    As we passed the main city area, we walked towards C.O.P.E.- the Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise. The children there are survivors of explosives, and they are given prosthetics in order to regain a normal way of life. We watched videos and heard stories about victims, not only children, that are unaware of the bombs locations. One woman was cooking in her house, and the heat from the fire set off a bomb underneath her. And small children collect pieces of shrapnel that they find to sell or use as toys. The public relations manager was very informative, and we left pleased that we had stopped by. Stopping by the Golden Stupa, the national stupa of Laos, we ended our time here.

Bawdy Bangkok

   

In the first cab to the cabaret show

       The journey from Siem Reap to Bangkok didn’t take as long as expected, however, the border crossing took much longer. After being dropped off by the bus, we waited for our bags (the ones at the very bottom) to be removed from the bus. Finally grabbing them, we headed around the traffic circle and into the huge group that was congregating around immigration. We stood in line forever, as the line finally split into four lines. Quickly passing the counter (again we were finger-printed), we walked to the other side and stopped, unaware of where we were supposed to go next. We didn’t see anyone from our bus, nor the “guide” that had pointed us in the direction of immigration. Walking down the road, we passed fruit stands and more children asking for money. Finally, we saw customs and a large, imposing sign threatening a life sentence or execution for having anything to do with drugs. We were shuffled through, and then came out the other side, where we were given colored stickers signaling our destination. Just like cattle. As we were shepherded past the station, the red stickers continued on and the yellow stickers (us) stopped in front of a mini-mart. Waiting for the bus, we were surprised to find that we were standing next to it the entire time. And by “bus” they meant “large van that we’re going to stuff with as many people as we possibly can.” Debating whether to wait or jump on in the last possible space, we quickly made our decision after one of the guys on the bus said that he had been waiting for three hours. Squished next to the backpacks, we put our headphones in and waited out the four hour ride.
    Arriving in Bangkok, we were dropped off on the side of a street. Trying to contact Baitoey, we walked along the busy roads looking for internet. Finding a restaurant advertising it, we stopped inside, only to discover that the internet didn’t work. Leaving me with our bags, Becca ran across the street to persuade the jewelry store to let her use their internet for a minute. Ten minutes later, she came back, saying she found a restaurant down the road but that she said she was waiting for me, used the internet and then ran off. So we went back to the restaurant and waited for Baitoey to respond to our face book message.
    Enjoying pad thai and lemon tea, we decided to just find a guesthouse and hang out with Baitoey tomorrow. Finding one on our maps app, we headed off in the direction we thought it was in. A few wrong turns later, we ended up on Khosan Road. Spotting a sign for our guesthouse on this bright, lively street, we turn left, through the displays of jewelry, past the t-shirts, down a narrow alleyway, past a little restaurant, around a corner, past a tattoo parlor and finally found it. We agreed to meet Baitoey tomorrow at her university and settled in for the night.
    The next day, we walked the opposite direction, through more shops, beauty parlors and apparently a casino before arriving at a street to catch a cab. The first two cabs didn’t understand the address B had sent us, but the third did. “Far, why there” the driver asked. “Meeting a friend.” And we set off for her school. Arriving at the road, the cab driver dropped us off, and we waited for Baitoey to arrive. We saw her immediately, waving frantically from across the street in a bright shirt. She walked us to her campus and we sat down and waited for her friend, Joy, to meet us. While we waited, Baitoey brought us over a snack, after asking if we liked mango and spicy. What she came back with did not remind me of mango at all. It was shredded mango, dried shrimp, peanuts, and some sort of dried fish with a spicy orange sauce over it all. And the she brought over coconuts with straws in them. This became the trend for the day, we asked what something was or Baitoey thought we would like it, and we would get it. Thus, the feasting day began.
    We hopped in the cab, and arrived a little over an hour later at a temple. Baitoey and Joy showed us where to light the incense and candle, where to put the candle, where to place the little square of gold paper, and where we were supposed to pray. Usually we just walk into temples, appreciate the beauty, snap a few pictures and leave, so it was nice to be able to participate.

    After the temple, we headed out to take a boat around the harbor. Climbing in the little boat, our guide assured us that we would not tip over. Laughing, we snapped pictures of the fishing villages, the fish that “walks” out of water, and the lizards that crawl around. Back to the cab, we headed out and stopped at another temple. This temple was overlooked by a monk sitting inside, who told us that we were very beautiful. Thanking him, we walked around admiring the wood carvings and prayed with Baitoey and Joy. Leaving the temple, we smiled at the sleeping monk.
    Outside, Baitoey showed us the gongs that you hit for luck. Becca and I hit them a few times, hoping for the best. Back to the cab, we drove for a while again, eventually reaching one of Bangkok’s famous floating markets. We went to Amphawa, one that is less touristy, but more popular with locals. The first things we walked through were clothes and some trinkets, and then the market began. We were immediately greeted with desserts of every kind, green wrapped ones, ones stuffed with cream, and little popsicles surrounded by ice and water in a large tin bucket. Asking Baitoey about them, she insisted we get them, We tried to eat them quickly so the brightly colored juice wouldn’t run down our fingers. Passing fried foods, fish in little baskets, and fushia and green desserts, we finally made it to the river. Walking along the edges of the market, we peered down people in boats cutting fruit and cooking seafood.

the floating market

    Stopping at a restaurant with little tables on the edge of the ledge, we sat on the ground and ordered seafood-shrimp, scallops, spicy seafood salad, squid, and real pad thai. Everything was delicious, the seafood was fresh, and the pad thai was perfect- a leaf with noodles, bread crumbles, seafood and a little pile of sugar, peanuts and red pepper flakes. Stuffed, we continued our walk along the river, stopping for banana pieces cooked on a stick. A few stops later, Baitoey insisted that we get some sun cakes. They ended up being kind of strange-a flakey dough with a more solid, sweet inside. Since it was sweet, Becca loved it. And then B insisted that we get ice cream and these little jelly and cream treats. On our way out, Baitoey got dessert tacos stuffed with sugar and coconut and cotton candy. After all of this sugar, we called it a day.
    The next day, Baitoey met us at our guesthouse at about noon. We had already made a trip to Starbucks for Becca’s addiction and were waiting contently with our drinks. We got onto yet another cab and headed to one of the large markets, as Baitoey enjoyed shopping as much as we do. On our way, we stopped at a jewelry gallery, the largest in Thailand. At first, we were confused as to why Baitoey took us here, as there were also really touristy scarves, wallets and trinkets that were way more expensive than the open-air markets. We detoured and entered the main gem area, where there were thousands of necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings in glass cases. Wandering around, we were again followed by an annoying suited woman that was assigned to us the moment we came in. She was always behind us, no matter where we went. We each bought a sapphire ring that was more than we budgeted for, but way less than we would have paid in the states.
    Leaving the jewelry store, we drove to the market, where we were overwhelmed with the amount of clothing, trinkets and food available. Walking through the aisles, I stopped to look at dresses, while Baitoey bought some shoes. The shops became more boutique-like, but still at inexpensive prices. We stopped at a little restaurant-stand to try another sweet- black jelly with ice and brown sugar. Stopping at a restaurant for lunch, we tried more Thai food-including sour soup and fish cakes.

One of the lady-boys at the cabaret show

    Back at our hotel, we got ready to go to Calypso- a cabaret show. Taking a cab to the hotel was quite simple, the most difficult part was pushing our way through the crowd on Khaosan Road. Arriving slightly late, we lucked out by buying tickets that someone had reserved, but didn’t show up for. Three rows away from the stage, we were center stage for a cabaret show by the highest paid prostitutes in the world. And they happened to be transgender men. Gorgeous transgender men. Their hair was long and flowing and they wore tight, revealing dresses and leotards. As we left, we took pictures with one of our favorites- a spirited, pretty brunette. As we walked outside, we tried to guesstimate how far away the Hilton was.
    Turns out that none of the cab drivers knew what or where the Hilton was. Five cabs, numerous phone calls to cab driver’s English speaking friends, and a cab driver that drove us around, stopping at random hotels later, Becca called her dad and asked him to look up the address. He incredulously asked, “they don’t know where the Hilton is?” Nope. Apparently, it’s the Millennium Hilton and most of the letters in “Hilton” are unpronounceable in Thai. Interesting.
    After getting out of the cab, as the driver tried to charge us more after he figured out where we were really going, we found an older driver that used the meter. Finally arriving at the Hilton, we took the elevator to the highest floor, to go to the 360 skybar. The outside patio area was very quite, there were two guys sipping cocktails as they overlooked the city. The inside was a little busier, but not by much. Jazz music was being played by a band, as a woman sang in the glowing blue room. We ordered cocktails- a strawberry Belvedere and a blueberry pancake- and sipped our drinks as we looked out over Bangkok.

At the top of the Hilton- the 360 bar

    Before long, a group of businessmen showed up, along with a few women. A couple of the guys came over to talk to us, and we found out that they were on business from Canada. After Becca frightened the Jewish guy away by talking about Israel, one of the women excitedly rushed over. She had gone to UW-Madison about ten years ago and was thrilled to meet other alumni. She worked for the previous Thai government, had been a member of Parliament and was now a superintendent. She immediately decided that her brother, who had also gone to UW, needed to come join us as well. As the older men left, a small group remained with us. And proceeded to buy a bottle of whisky and pay the servers and bartenders to stay open for a few more hours, past bar time. Chatting until the early morning, they then decided that we should all go to a club. Walking out of the hotel, we hopped into the awaiting Porsche and BMW, and sped off into the night.
    Two clubs, numerous gin and tonics and vodka redbulls later, we were exhausted and ready to go back. And then we were invited to one of our new friend’s (Matt) dad’s birthday parties the next day. Matt offered to put us up in the Hilton for the remainder of our stay, get us flights to the island we were going to, and let us use his yacht while we were there. And then sent one of his drivers to take us to the India Embassy to apply for our visas. Way to represent, Wisconsin Alum.